Kochi is a major port city on the south west coast of India, by the Arabian Sea. Kochi rose to significance as a trading centre after massive flooding of the Periyar River destroyed the nearby ports of Muziris and Cranganore in 1341.
Over the last two millennia, through these ports, the spice, silk and precious stone trade thrived with the Arabs, Jews, Syrians, Greeks and Romans. Thomas – one of Christ’s 12 apostles – came to India in 52 AD. He landed here and spread the word of Christ. The Jews reached here as early as 2,000 years ago, while more came in after their persecution in Europe during the 16th and 17th centuries. One of the Chera kings of Kerala who traveled westwards to Arabia, met Prophet Mohammed and, on returning to his land, constructed a mosque in Muziris, which is the first mosque to be built in India and which exists even today!
The Portuguese arrived in 1500 AD, soon after Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India and landed in Calicut in 1498, followed by Saint Francis Xavier, who opened a Christian mission in 1530. Thus, Cochin as it was called then, became the first colonial settlement within India. Coveted as a thriving port, the Dutch took over Cochin, by overthrowing the Portuguese in 1663 and eventually ceded it to the British in 1814. In 1947, when India gained Independence from the British, Cochin joined the Indian Union.
Thus, over the centuries, Kochi evolved as a city with multi-religious, multi-cultural and multi-linguistic influences and even today maintains this old-world character in the timeless areas of Fort Kochi.
Cochin as it was called then, became the first colonial settlement within India
Fort Kochi offers the visitor an opportunity to walk its lanes and discover history through its buildings and monuments. One can observe the vernacular character alongside the various architectural influences and date the structures corresponding to different colonial periods. Fort Immanuel is amongst the earliest colonial structures, built in the very early 1500s. It is a symbol of the strategic alliance between the Maharajah of Cochin and the Monarch of Portugal after whom it is named. The St. Francis Church, considered the oldest colonial church in India built in the early 1500s, remained with the Portuguese until 1663, after which it came under the Dutch Reformists till 1804, and then under the Anglicans until 1947.
Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried here but 14 years later his remains were exhumed and taken to Lisbon. The original timber structure was rebuilt in stone some time in the mid-1600s. The Santa Cruz Basilica –another church built by the Portuguese – was elevated to a Cathedral by the Pope in 1558, but was demolished by the British in 1795. Rebuilt
in the late 1800s, it was consecrated as a Basilica in 1905.
Another significant thread of the Kochi fabric is the Jews. As compared to the Malabari Jews who came to Mudiris and Cranganore as early as the period of Solomon, the Kochi Jews date back to about 500 years ago. They came in after their persecution in Iberia and were nicknamed the pardesi (foreign) Jews. Both maintained their separate cultural identity and built their own synagogues in Kochi. The pardesi synagogue in Mattancherry is the only one that still offers religious service to the fast dwindling Jewish community there and is a must see for a visitor at the historical area of Fort Kochi. Sharing a common wall with the temple of the Mattancherry Palace, externally it is vernacular in character. But the interiors are different; the flooring is of hand-painted blue porcelain Chinese tiles, each one being unique. Belgian chandeliers hang majestically from the ceiling and the brass-railing pulpit is very prominent.
Among the objects of antiquity are the Scrolls of Law, 10th century copper plates and a few gold crowns. Around the synagogue are located many old Jewish homes, most of which are unfortunately abandoned or have new owners.
The Mattancherry Palace was built by the Portuguese and gifted to the Rajah as an act of appeasement after plundering a nearby temple. After the Dutch took over, the palace underwent some changes and was named the Dutch Palace. Grand in scale, it includes two temples. It has rich wooden ceilings and houses a large collection of portraits of the Rajahs and murals based on Hindu mythology in strict temple tradition.
The Dutch cemetery is also another place of interest and is a silent reminder of the many Dutch people who died so far away from home in the pursuit of power.
Also of interest to a walker are the numerous colonial period mansions that line the streets of Fort Kochi. Amongst the interesting ones are David Hall, Hill Bungalow, Koder House, Pierce Leslie Bungalow and the Bastion Bungalow. All these served as homes to prominent citizens and trading companies of the period, but have changed owners over a period of time. The Maritime Museum and the Indo-Portuguese Museum are also housed in old structures and are worth dropping in for a more detailed history of the city. The Cochin Club, which used to be a typical male-dominated social space of the British era, houses an impressive library and a collection of sporting trophies.
Fort Kochi offers the visitor an opportunity to walk its lanes and discover history through its buildings and monuments
After cruising down the meandering streets, one can relax and savour local cuisine at the Vasco Da Gama square, a paved promenade by the sea. Here, the most enjoyable sight is of the Chinese fishing nets against the backdrop of the setting sun. Erected with local teak and bamboo, these nets are iconic to the city of Kochi and are a legacy of the visiting traders from the court of Kublai Khan between 1350 and 1450.
You could continue the walking experience by hopping into one of the ferries at the wharfs and crossing over to the nearby islands or to the mainland Ernakulum city. As the old Colonial flavour continues along the coast, one also notices an emerging modern skyline along the Ernakulum waterfront.
Strategically located, Kochi served as a gateway to the country in the last millennia. It soaked in the cultures of several ethnicities over this period. Cradled in nature’s lap, today it is a potpourri of culture, language and customs, which attracts visitors from the world over. With a rich past and an impressive urban infrastructure, the ‘Queen of the Arabian Sea’ is definitely poised to be a role model for other Indian cities.
DRAWINGS: Pritha Sardessai
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